Click here at any time to return to the Home page
Download or view our latest catalogue on-line  
  Hints & Tips for your Garden  
  Special Offers and Listings  
  Guides to Better Horticulture  
  Nicholsons on Show - Events Guide  
   
Click here to learn more about Nicholson Nurseries
Nicholsons and Forestry
Landscaping Services from Nicholsons
Visit the Nicholsons Plant Centre
Looking for Help and Advice? Click here
Download our latest catalogue
Useful Links and Contacts
Contact Nicholson Nurseries

Click here to view this article as a PDF

Click on the image above
to view this leaflet in
Adobe Acrobat format.

To download the file rather than view it now, place your cursor over the image and click the right mouse button. Select "Save target as", then save the PDF file to your hard drive. You can then print out a hard copy.

 


Planting Guidelines

How to prepare the ground and give your new plant the best chance for growth . . .

Timing
Container-grown plants can be planted at any time but must be kept well watered. Late September to the end of April is ideal. Bare root plants should be planted between November and March.

Care of Plants Before Planting
Keep the soil within the pot of a container-grown plant moist prior to planting. If you intend to store bare-rooted plants, it is a good idea to dig them into a vegetable garden or similar as a temporary measure, making sure that all roots are covered with friable moist soil. If you are planting one of Nicholsons’ own bare-rooted plants, you should note that these are supplied in special co-extruded bags. These plants should be kept securely tied in their bags until they are ready to be planted. Plants in their bags should be stored away from direct sunlight, frost and wind, and the roots should not be allowed to dry out. Ideally, dip the roots before planting, and carry out planting within a few days of purchase or seek further advice.

The Hole
Dig the hole as large as possible, ensuring that the roots or root ball of the plant will fit well into the hole with 15-20cm on each side. Typically, the hole will need to be one-and-a-half times the size of the roots or root ball, and this applies especially to depth. It is important to dig over the bottom of the hole as this will aid drainage and assist good root establishment.

The Soil
Prepare your soil well. Cultivate to a fine tilth (maximum clod size should be less than 40mm). Check for compaction at the base of the hole, ensuring you can dig freely to 450mm. If there is compaction, loosen the soil. If you are unsure about the suitability of your soil type to the species you are hoping to plant, please don’t hesitate to contact us. A good planting medium such as T.P.M.C. should be dug in to the base of the hole, as this will encourage deep root growth. If the tree is a bare root example, a suitable stake should be driven well into the hole prior to back filling.

Fertiliser
Depending upon the plant species and the condition of your soil, you may wish to consider mixing in very well rotted manure (approximately 20% of the soil volume) to improve structure and fertility. Alternatively use a fertiliser like Growmore in the summer or a slow release fertiliser such as ALS or Enmag in the winter.

Planting
Position the tree and adjust its depth in the hole. The final depth of the tree must be at the same depth as it was in the container or just above the start of the stem base.
Back filling should be done with a mixture of soil taken from the hole and some planting medium. If a watering tube is being fitted, it should be included before the plant is placed within the hole (see Watering leaflet). If an irrigation pipe is being used, then it should be installed prior to back-filling (see later in this leaflet). The soil should be added steadily in 50mm layers and well firmed. This can be done by treading the soil with your feet making sure the tree remains straight.

Staking
If the tree is bare root this should be done prior to planting. With container grown or root balled trees, it may be difficult to position the stake close to the main trunk so two stakes should be used with a cross rail and the tree attached with a tree tie. Stakes are only a short-term measure and should be removed by the third season. This will allow the roots to anchor and support the tree naturally. Providing the tree stands upright in calm weather, do not worry if it bends in the wind.

Mulching
To complete the planting a mulch should be spread 75mm deep around the base of the tree to retain the moisture after planting and suppress weeds. Allow a 50mm gap between the trunk and the mulch.

Top Dressing
Top dress the tree with fish, Blood and Bone in March at the rate of 3oz per square yard and mulch annually to ensure maximum growth and quick establishment.

Watering
Water in well, but do not saturate. Water is the most essential factor for any tree in its first season. Please see our watering guide for more information.

Aftercare
Immediately after planting make sure the plant is soaked thoroughly. Water onto the root ball area in particular, as well as the surrounding soil.

All Subsequent Watering
Check the root ball and surrounding soil by gently digging into the soil to a depth of 8-10cm, or deeper if necessary. If the root ball is wet or damp from previous watering there is no need to apply more water. If the root ball below the surface has dried out, then water only enough to ensure the root ball is wet.

Check: To avoid plant damage or failure, check the plant frequently, every other day or even daily, depending upon weather conditions.

How much water do I give?
It is impossible to advise on how much water to give, as the situation will vary for each situation, depending upon the plant itself, the soil, the site conditions, and the weather in your garden. All these factors are unique. The answer is to keep checking the plant regularly. If the root ball and surrounding soil are wet, then do not water. If they are dry, then you need to redress this. If you are unsure then please call and speak to one of our experts.

Don’t Waterlog
The plant will not tolerate sitting in water-saturated ground. Air in the soil is as vital as the water.

Don’t be fooled by the rain
Summer rain very often does not soak deeply into the ground but simply wets the surface and then evaporates, sometimes not even reaching the root ball. Occasionally the underlying soil can be very dry but the soil surface appears wet, especially after rain. The answer is to dig 25cm (10”) carefully into the root ball and surrounding soil to see if the conditions around the roots are moist or dry. In winter, when conditions are cold and windy, evergreens should also be regularly checked. See our leaflet on Watering Guidelines for further advice.

Contacts
If you would like further advice on planting, please check out our interactive diagram by following this link, or contact Nicholson Nurseries, either by telephone or by using the email links on the Contacts page. It is also possible to request a site visit.
Nicholsons staff are happy to provide this service throughout Oxfordshire and the surrounding counties, and regularly make calls in Buckinghamshire, Warwickshire, Northamptonshire, Gloucestershire, Berkshire, Wiltshire and Worcestershire.