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Watering Guidelines
Making the most of a valuable resource . . .
Introduction
In general terms it is best to let plants reach for
their own water, and it would have to be in extreme
circumstances that we would recommend watering established
planting. Excess watering can lead to the formation
of shallow roots and thereby create a plant that is
vulnerable to drought and wind.
Grass
Water newly laid turf to full saturation until fully
rooted – in other words, until you can no longer
lift the turf with ease.
Seeded areas of grass should not be watered in at all
- rain is best. If it rains and then is followed by
a very prolonged dry period, you may see the grass ‘chitting’
and then drying. Under these circumstances we would
advise modest watering, but only with great care. Apply
the water using a very light sprinkler to avoid the
formation of a cap that will prevent proper moisture
absorption once the soil has dried again.
Once
all of the grass seeds have germinated, it is then important
to keep the seed bed moist until the seedlings have
rooted.
Flower Beds
We always advise the use of mulch on a flower bed, not
only to deter weeds, but also to help with water retention.
To test to see if the border needs extra water, carefully
scrape back the mulch and dig a hole 20 cms deep. Grip
a handful of soil firmly in your hand and squeeze it.
Assess the soil using the Squeeze Test:
The
Squeeze Test
| If
the soil . . . |
then
. . . |
| Doesn’t
bind at all and falls readily through your fingers
|
Water
urgently |
| Does
bind but then crumbles when touched |
Just
about okay. Apply water and check again soon |
| Binds
and holds |
No
need to water |
| Binds
and free water squeezes out |
Too
wet!
Allow to dry out. |
Drip
Pipe
Flower and shrub borders will benefit from the use of
drip pipe. These are easy to install and should lie
discreetly under bark mulch. It requires a water pressure
of approximately 1.5 bar to run a drip pipe of up to
700 metres in length, and most outside taps are between
2.0 and 4.0 bar. A typical drip pipe will have small
holes every 50 cms and will deliver 2.3 litres of water
per hole per hour.
During a dry spell, assuming the soil is moist beneath
the mulch, two hours of watering per week should be
sufficient, but check the moisture content of the soil
using the squeeze test just to make sure.
Bark
Mulch
The
use of bark mulch around the plant has two main benefits.
Not only does it suppress weeds, reducing competition
and thereby giving the plant a better chance of growth,
but it also retains moisture in the ground. A well-applied
mulch will permit all available water to soak through
to the roots and then prevent water loss through evaporation.
Mulch is available in various grades, from fine to course,
and can be produced from a number of different materials,
including plastic, bark, straw, gravel or peat (beware
wood chips). We recommend that mulch be typically applied
to a depth of around 7cms.
Hedges
Hedges benefit massively from the use of drip pipe.
It is relatively cheap and will give a good result for
establishment. Bark Mulch is also very valuable, and
our experience suggests that soil under a bark mulch
will dry out up to eight weeks later than unprotected
soil in a dry spell. The drip pipe should be installed
prior to mulching and then covered. This ensures that
the water reaches the soil quickly, is not subjected
to evaporation, and unsightly piping is hidden by the
mulch.
Smaller Planted Trees
In many cases where large numbers of smaller trees (less
than 2 metres) have been planted, it may not be economically
worthwhile to water them. Using a bowser can prove to
be a very costly exercise, and yet may still not supply
each plant with the appropriate amount of water.
In
such cases it may be more cost-effective not to water
at all, but simply to replace those few trees that fail.
Larger Planted Trees
During a typical warm summer, a tree with a one-metre
canopy will require approximately 40-80 litres of water
per week. When planting a larger tree (taller than 3
metres) we recommend that a watering tube is included
to ensure that any water given goes directly to the
roots. Our planting diagram illustrates the principles
and procedures. After planting, trees will need watering
once or twice per week, depending upon conditions, using
a hosepipe or bucket. This should be sufficient to wet
the soil thoroughly, but not to the point of saturation
- if in doubt, check with the Squeeze Test. A dressing
of Bark Mulch will reduce water loss from evaporation,
and also act as a weed supressant
Remember
Too much water can be just as harmful as too little.
If you are unsure, carry out the soil squeeze test,
and see if your plants really need extra water. Be especially
careful with Taxus (Yew) and Ilex (Holly). If in any
doubt, please ask.
Contacts
If you would like further advice on watering, please
check out our interactive diagram by following this
link, or contact Nicholson Nurseries,
either by telephone or by using the email links on the
Contacts page.
If your problem is particularly acute, it is also possible
to request a site visit, so that Nicholsons
staff can offer advice on soil, watering and wider plant
care. We are able to provide this service throughout
Oxfordshire and the surrounding counties, including
Buckinghamshire, Warwickshire, Northamptonshire, Gloucestershire,
Berkshire, Wiltshire and Worcestershire.
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